This will come in handy while wiring your LEDs. In the left bottom corner, there is a checkbox to apply the slider intensity on all outputs, or you could manually select the output you want to test. I recommend downloading LEDBlinky and run the handy “SimpleLEDTest.exe” utility. The GND terminal on the LEDWiz should be connected to the previously repurposed PSU. The LEDWiz requires external power and should be powered by the same PSU as the LEDs. I used the handy feet I used to secure the motherboard in place. Since most of the lights we need to control are in our front panel I recommend placing somewhere in the front of your cabinet. Most of our lighting will be controlled from our LEDWiz including the button LEDs. Turn on the computer and make sure everything is working as intended. Now connect the monitor that is already installed in our backbox to the HDMI on your graphics card. This will be used to connect all the peripherals to the computer, as well as the DMD, Saintsmart, Controls… I strongly recommend a USB hub with external power because powering all those boards can be pretty much for a single USB port and this will also minimize the risk of random disconnect issues. The motherboard I chose was equipped with 4 USB ports, we need at least 7 ports so I bought and stuck a powered 8-port USB3.0 hub to the side of my cabinet using double-sided tape. make sure the switch is only momentary as keeping these wires shorted for over 6 seconds will force your computer to shut off again. The computer will register a power button press whenever the wires are connected/shorted. ![]() Depending on your choice these will be connected to the large switch or a dedicated Power button that was installed earlier. The pin layout may be different for each motherboard so make sure to check the manual. To turn on and off the computer without having to open the cabinet, I added some wires to the power switch pins on the motherboard. I also connected the boot SSD and HDD and stuck it to the side of the cabinet using double-sided tape (this tape gave problems when I wanted to back up the file system, I recommend using something less permanent). Then connected the CPU and Motherboard cable to the motherboard. I used double-sided tape to stick the Power supply to the back and bottom of the cabinet. This computer will be powered by its own power supply (not the one we use special effects). These feet are very cheap and I ended up using them for every chip that needs to be mounted. After assembling the computer, I connected all peripherals and installed windows 10 (windows installed is required for the following steps) I also mounted some feet into the motherboard standoff holes that will be screwed into the cabinet. I used double-sided tape to secure the power supply in the cabinet and screwed the terminals onto the side and bottom of the cabinet, Most of the 5V electronics are located in the front (button LEDs) so I recommend placing the 5V terminal to the front, 12V is used throughout the whole cabinet so try to place the 12V terminals somewhat centered.Īssemble the computer on your motherboard box and make sure it is booting as you don’t want to troubleshoot this when installing in your cabinet. I connected these wires to a separate terminal for easier installation later when connecting the electronics. ![]() ![]() The green wire should be permanently connected to black to hotwire the power supply to turn on automatically whenever it’s plugged in (this is usually controlled by the motherboard). Power supplies usually have 5 colors of cables with red being +5V, yellow +12V and black the GND. To power all of our special effects, I will repurpose an old PC Power Supply to provide +5V and +12V. Then cut off the wall plug of the cable and wire it onto your incoming power terminals. Alternatively, you could use strong double-sided tape to secure it in place. Just mount it somewhere centered in your cabinet. I added a normal power strip because we will still have to power a lot of electronics that have a normal plug. Then I used the terminals to split both power lines and the ground. These switches are quite hard to get so alternatively you could add a momentary push-button next to your power switch. The switch has two terminals, one can be used to switch the main power and the secondary terminals will be the temporarily closed contact that I will use to turn on the PC later. This switch has 2 modes: The usual ON/OFF and a temporary spring-loaded start function when you twist past the “ON” indication. For turning ON and OFF the electronics in your pinball machine, I used a large industrial switch I had laying around.
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